The French Laundry

French Laundry is your rich friend, well-heeled and warm. A friend who places huge demands on terrified staff, who is blind to their fear. A friend whose displays of generosity may remind you of the limits of your checkbook, but never make you feel poor.

New York Pizza

There is an old saying that in order to make an apple pie, you must first invent the universe. In order to have a proper New York-style slice, you need to conjure the city around you. Because the secret to New York pizza is not the pizza. It’s New York.


Gin Gin

Gin Gin, a constantly flexed bicep of a restaurant, has staked its territory in Roma Norte. The tempo is brisk, constantly a half beat ahead of your heart. Brace yourself and enter.

Pirate's Booty

Each puff destroyed leaves behind trace remnants, gritty cornmeal and powdered cheese, and if you eat them fast enough that grit accumulates: a tiny hoard of white gold dust, panned through in your teeth, slipping away in the river of your mouth.